Using Energenie Power Plugs

Forget Energenie's own sample.  See http://bennuttall.com/whats-new-gpio-zero-v1-2/

https://pypi.python.org/pypi/energenie

 

from energenie import switch_on, switch_off
from time import sleep

# turn all plug sockets on and off
switch_on()
switch_off()

# turn a plug socket on and off by number
switch_on(3)
switch_off(3)

sudo apt-get install python-pip
sudo pip install energenie

sudo apt-get install mysql-client python-mysqldb -y

 

 

 

General Update – 1st December 2015

I've produced version 2.1 of the WeatherPi and now have 4 in long term test.  They seem to be doing well.  It looks like the MCP23017 chip can't keep up with the wind speed detector, so that's sensor is now going through an arduino nano, and in to the pi via the serial connection.  If an Arduino Nano is being used, might as well use it for the analogue sensors as well.

Possible changes to the Weather Pi? Remove 2 x I2C Analogue converters and replace with an Arduino Nano. Add 2 headers dedicated to running servos direct from the pi for Pan and Tilt Camera. Add header for serial I/O. Possibly pre-route some GPIO ports to the breakout section of the board.

On a separate subject I've moved the 433mz receiver from a dedicated Pi to the Weather Display Pi.  This seems to be working well.

I've removed the aircraft tracking facility from Pi 7 as I never seemed to actually use the data.  I did have it feeding in to the Flight24 website but again they never seemed to use the data.

My test Pi is currently testing PL9823 RGB Addressable LED's which are similar to Neopoxles / WS2811 / WS2812.  Testing seems to be going well, although I can only get them displaying Red, Green, Blue, Yellow, Purple, Pink and White.  I can't get them to "dither" other colours.

I received a Pi Zero on the front cover of my Magpi Magazine, and at this stage not sure what I'll do with it.

WeatherPi Version 2 PCB issues

WeatherPi version 2 has been assembled and I have attempted to test. And that's when I hit some issues.

I'd assembled the board with new 40pin extended headers to fit to a A+, B+ or 2. Unfortunately my test Pi was an old style model A, and the 40 pin header get's in the way of the Audio port on the classic A.  I tried it on a B+ that I have but the PC can't clear the USB and ethernet socket.  Major fail.  I'd soldered the extended header too close to the PCB rather than at the full extent.

2015-04-15 10.53.22Thankfully I came up with the idea of using an additional header to "stand off" the PCB from the Pi.  This worked but left a 10cm square board hanging in mid air.  Once populated with cables the entire thing tips over.  Another reason the next version must have mounting holes for both forms of Pi.

Once I'd worked that out I turned on the Pi. I had a power light but nothing happening. I'd already tested the Pi and it was fully networked, but I couldn't connect.  I gave in and connected a monitor to find it wasn't booting up.

To cut a very long story short I spent a very annoying two days trying to figure it all out.  I discovered that despite spending 2 weeks on the PCB design and checking it for a further 5 days, that I'd wired up the IC chips incorrectly.

On the MCP23017 digital input output IC I'd wired up the i2c and power wrongly.  Basically I'd wired up from the bottom upwards, but should have missed a pin at the start which is not used.

On one of the PCF8591 analogue chip I'd missed out an SCL connection for i2c. On both chips I'd mistakenly wired up the address pins to positive instead of negative. This isn't a big issue as the chips appear successfully on different port numbers.  I'd also connected the VSS pin to positive instead of negative.At this stage I'm ready to give up.

 

WeatherPi Version 2 PCB arrived and assembled

2015-04-15 10.51.39The WeatherPi version 2 PCB has finally arrived from Seedstudio in Singapore.

I'm impressed with the "customer experience" from Seedstudio and they always seem to delivery 3 weeks after initial order.

10 PCB's came in at about £20.  To have these produced in the UK would have cost about £50 for the first one

The PCB was populated in height order.  Smallest components first working my way up to the tallest components :-

  • Surface mount LED's, Resisters and switches (painful when using a soldering iron)
  • Resisters
  • IC sockets
  • Jumper style headers
  • Molex style headers
  • 40 pin Header for connecting to Pi
  • Finally the Analogue and Digital IC's, plus the DS18B20 temperature sensor

I've gone ahead and assembled it and these are my initial thoughts:-

  • Needs mounting holes to match up with the A+, B+ and Pi 2.
  • Needs mounting holes on each corner
  • The I2c headers at the top of the board are the wrong way round.  All my other PCB's have the "head board" of the header inwards. I had to switch them round to match up with existing i2c devices I have
  • It was difficult to solder the 8 different 2 way headers for the analogue ports (on the left).  Much easier to solder the 8x2 headers for digital inputs and outputs

Next step will be testing and initial power on!

 

 

 

i2c Analogue Breakout PCB (ver 1.2)

As part of development of Weather Pi, I wanted to test out Analogue sensors with the Raspberry Pi.  I had a look a some of the commercial available PCB's such as Custard Pi and Quick2Wire but was shocked at the high price (£15 - £20 plus P&P).

PCF8591The PCF8591 I2C chips that these units are based on can be purchased for about £1 so that does not justify the high price. This includes postage from China.

 

Introducing the Analogue Breakout Version 1.2 PCB.

PCF8591-1.2_pcb

The PCB uses 2 x PCF8591P i2c chips providing 8 ports for analogue sensors.  The chips are hard coded on the PCB to use i2c channel 48 and 4c.

The PCB has a jumper to allow the chips to run at 3.3 volts or 5 volts.  At the time of designing I was unsure if it was safe to run the chips at 5v when interfacing with the RaspberryPi.  Normally the Pi's only like 3.3 volts.

Also on the PCB are 3 x i2c headers running at 3.3v.

The PCB is compatible with all models of Pi except the compute model.  Only the 3.3v, 5v, GND, SDA and SCL pins are used. Using a 5cm board it's not possible to include space for all 40 possible GPIO pins, hence why they run to the edge.

The PCB's were ordered from SeedStudio, and cost about £7 for 10.

 

 

Update on the Weather Pi – January

A short update on the Weather Pi. The Weather Pi unit has been fully assembled and tested on the bench.

2015-03-02 11.28.18I've slightly modified the stand for the sensors to reduce the number of components required.  On the left hand side we have the wind speed and wind direction.  Right hand side we have the temperature sticking out of the end of the pipe.  Unseen inside the pipe is the humidity sensor.  On top we have the rain detector and the rain quality sensor.  The cables are fed inside the plastic tubes down to the base.

2015-03-02 11.28.31The plastic tubes are made from 44mm drainage pipe normally used to connect sinks and washing machines to the drains.  The bottom of the pipe has been cut at a 45 degree angle to allow it to be driven in to the ground.  I've placed 45 degree bends on to top T section of pipe to try and keep the bulk of the rain out, whilst allowing air to circulate to the humidity sensor.

2015-03-02 11.28.41The Raspberry Pi and the Weather Pi circuit board have been placed inside a "DriBox" enclosure.  This has access points to allow cables to enter the box, and have rubber seals to keep the rain out. I plan to have the LED's sticking out of the case so I can see the Pi has power and is running the scripts.  The case has enough room for the Raspberry Pi, Circuit board, USB WIFI dongle with large areal, and also a large USB battery.  At this stage I haven't been able to route electricity outside to power the box, so am relying on USB batteries

 

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