Update 16 July 2016
Used waiting new use - 1 x Pi2, 1 x B+, 2 x B, 2 x A+, 3 x A
New Raspberry Pi - Zero (1.2), Zero (1.3), B+
Broken - 1 x B+ (water), 2 x B rev 2 (ebay arrived O/S)
Missing - 1 x B rev 1
TinyTX3 - Wireless Sensors - http://nathan.chantrell.net/tinytx-wireless-sensor/
- Bathroom - DHT22 Humidity Sensor (Node 11)
- Kitchen - DHT22 Humidity Sensor (12)
- Hallway - DHT22 Humidity Sensor (14)
- Extractor Fan Pipe - DHT22 Humidity Sensor (15)
- Freezer- DS18B20 1-Wire Temperature Sensor (23)
- Fridge - DS18B20 1-Wire Temperature Sensor (24)
- Spare - DS18B20 1-Wire Temperature Sensor (26)
- PC Case - DS18B20 1-Wire Temperature Sensor (27)
- Air Con Fan - dual DS18B20 1-Wire Temperature Probes (29)
- Door Switch (5)
- Window Switch (6)
This site is a collection of notes, documentation and web links for my Pi's.
Retired Pi Uses
I mainly buy parts from CPC, ModMyPi, Pimoroni and eBay
Disable Serial console login via Raspi-Config - select advanced menu
sudo nano /boot/config.txt
enable_uart = 0
enable_uart = 1
sudo apt-get install minicom
Win32DiskImager says SD card too small even though I'm trying to write an 8gb image to an 8gb SD card
Use SDImager.exe instead. It will write disk image until it runs out of room on the SD card. Most Linux images have blank (allocated) space at the end of the image so normally the unwritable data is not important.
Forget Energenie's own sample. See http://bennuttall.com/whats-new-gpio-zero-v1-2/
from energenie import switch_on, switch_off
from time import sleep
# turn all plug sockets on and off
# turn a plug socket on and off by number
sudo apt-get install python-pip
sudo pip install energenie
sudo apt-get install mysql-client
sudo apt-get install python-mysqldb
sudo apt-get update
sudo apt-get install samba samba-common-bin
Configure the software
sudo nano /etc/samba/smb.conf
Scroll to bottom of file, add the following
comment=USB Drive Share
Sometimes I need to set up a Raspberry Pi and configure it to connect to a WIFI network. Sometimes that network is not available at the time. I know the network name and password in advance.
sudo nano /etc/wpa_supplicant/wpa_supplicant.conf
ssid= "<wifi name>"
I've produced version 2.1 of the WeatherPi and now have 4 in long term test. They seem to be doing well. It looks like the MCP23017 chip can't keep up with the wind speed detector, so that's sensor is now going through an arduino nano, and in to the pi via the serial connection. If an Arduino Nano is being used, might as well use it for the analogue sensors as well.
Possible changes to the Weather Pi? Remove 2 x I2C Analogue converters and replace with an Arduino Nano. Add 2 headers dedicated to running servos direct from the pi for Pan and Tilt Camera. Add header for serial I/O. Possibly pre-route some GPIO ports to the breakout section of the board.
On a separate subject I've moved the 433mz receiver from a dedicated Pi to the Weather Display Pi. This seems to be working well.
I've removed the aircraft tracking facility from Pi 7 as I never seemed to actually use the data. I did have it feeding in to the Flight24 website but again they never seemed to use the data.
My test Pi is currently testing PL9823 RGB Addressable LED's which are similar to Neopoxles / WS2811 / WS2812. Testing seems to be going well, although I can only get them displaying Red, Green, Blue, Yellow, Purple, Pink and White. I can't get them to "dither" other colours.
I received a Pi Zero on the front cover of my Magpi Magazine, and at this stage not sure what I'll do with it.
Following my disastrous testing I decided to try rescuing my WeatherPi version 2 PCB. In summary I'd designed the PCB wrongly, and the three IC chips had the wrong connections.
On the top of the PCB I had to break 3 tracks. I tried a mixture of tools from a drill bit, counter sinc, and eventually ended up with a scalpel blade. Working very carefully I was able to scratch away first the green coating, then the copper track, and to be safe some of the actual board material. I was surprised how thick the copper layer was.
On the bottom of the board I had to make 6 breaks. I'd tried to place as many tracks on the bottom side where possible so that I could see them when troubleshooting!
I carefully solder wires to the bottom of the board using the existing pins of the IC's and headers. I had started to use one of the unused header socket pins at the top of the board but then realized it was running at 5 volts rather than 3.3 volts. Hence why 3 wires run to one section and one to another.
I also attempted to unsolder the 40 pin header to replace with a 24 pin header but despite using a desolder iron and desolder braid, I could not release the header. In the end I gave in and resolder it again.
Once complete I checked there were no short circuits in the design and powered it up.
The Pi powered up and could see the three IC's, and also the temperature sensor.
So the PCB version 2 has been rescued but I don't think I'll use the other 9 boards. At this stage I think I'll work on the design and fix the issues and make another attempt at the PCB. Meanwhile I can work on the code to make it all work.
WeatherPi version 2 has been assembled and I have attempted to test. And that's when I hit some issues.
I'd assembled the board with new 40pin extended headers to fit to a A+, B+ or 2. Unfortunately my test Pi was an old style model A, and the 40 pin header get's in the way of the Audio port on the classic A. I tried it on a B+ that I have but the PC can't clear the USB and ethernet socket. Major fail. I'd soldered the extended header too close to the PCB rather than at the full extent.
Thankfully I came up with the idea of using an additional header to "stand off" the PCB from the Pi. This worked but left a 10cm square board hanging in mid air. Once populated with cables the entire thing tips over. Another reason the next version must have mounting holes for both forms of Pi.
Once I'd worked that out I turned on the Pi. I had a power light but nothing happening. I'd already tested the Pi and it was fully networked, but I couldn't connect. I gave in and connected a monitor to find it wasn't booting up.
To cut a very long story short I spent a very annoying two days trying to figure it all out. I discovered that despite spending 2 weeks on the PCB design and checking it for a further 5 days, that I'd wired up the IC chips incorrectly.
On the MCP23017 digital input output IC I'd wired up the i2c and power wrongly. Basically I'd wired up from the bottom upwards, but should have missed a pin at the start which is not used.
On one of the PCF8591 analogue chip I'd missed out an SCL connection for i2c. On both chips I'd mistakenly wired up the address pins to positive instead of negative. This isn't a big issue as the chips appear successfully on different port numbers. I'd also connected the VSS pin to positive instead of negative.At this stage I'm ready to give up.
The WeatherPi version 2 PCB has finally arrived from Seedstudio in Singapore.
I'm impressed with the "customer experience" from Seedstudio and they always seem to delivery 3 weeks after initial order.
10 PCB's came in at about £20. To have these produced in the UK would have cost about £50 for the first one
The PCB was populated in height order. Smallest components first working my way up to the tallest components :-
- Surface mount LED's, Resisters and switches (painful when using a soldering iron)
- IC sockets
- Jumper style headers
- Molex style headers
- 40 pin Header for connecting to Pi
- Finally the Analogue and Digital IC's, plus the DS18B20 temperature sensor
I've gone ahead and assembled it and these are my initial thoughts:-
- Needs mounting holes to match up with the A+, B+ and Pi 2.
- Needs mounting holes on each corner
- The I2c headers at the top of the board are the wrong way round. All my other PCB's have the "head board" of the header inwards. I had to switch them round to match up with existing i2c devices I have
- It was difficult to solder the 8 different 2 way headers for the analogue ports (on the left). Much easier to solder the 8x2 headers for digital inputs and outputs
Next step will be testing and initial power on!
The i2c Analogue PCB's arrived and the first one has been assembled. For this I decided to add it to the top of a version 1.2 Weather Pi.
The boards will be used on a Raspberry Pi model A so I used a 26 pin extended header to connect the boards to the Pi.